Tooling Around
A Bench Jewelers Guide to the
Tools You Use
When I was in college, I was told there are two types of jewelers, one who buys equipment and one who makes jewelry. It is not great tools that turn out professional work, but what you do with those tools. Having just the right tool does not make you a Master Craftsman. That only comes from knowing how, and developing the skills to use the tools you have. However, buying the proper tools saves time, improves the quality of work, and improves the overall effectiveness of the shop.
Buying tools that are seldom or never used add unnecessary expense to the shop. However, having the right tool to do the job will eliminate excessive labor and improve quality. There are times, when you need additional tools to get the job done more efficiently.
For example, it is possible to take and flatten out a sheet of gold thinner by using a hammer and anvil, if you do this for a while you can get very proficient (not to mention stronger). Jewelers have done this for centuries. However, the time wasted hammering out a sheet of gold is enormous when compared to using a rolling mill. Not only is using a rolling mill more efficient but a better product is formed.
Time Savers
Productivity in the shop can be increased when tools are purchased that will enable the jeweler to save time.
The following is a list of tools and methods that will help enable the bench jeweler to save time and increase productivity. This is not intended to be an exhaustive list; it is a beginning to start the jeweler in the right direction. It also can serve as a prompt for you to think of other ways to do your work. NEVER use a tool or method to save time, if the final result is a lower quality product. Always Avoid Quantity at the expense of Quality.
Use a quick-change handpiece rather than a chuck with a key. You never can seem to find the key when needed. In addition, you save time over loosening and tightening the chuck. The time saved will pay for the quick-change handpiece in a month or less.
Use reciprocating handpiece (hammer handpiece) on your flex shaft rather than a punch and hammer.
Use a rotary file (large cylinder bur) this works particularly well on the inside of rings when sizing.
Use a heart bur or knife-edge bur to “rough out” bright cutting. Clean up and polish with a graver.
For gravers used most often, have two or three gravers of the same size. If one is dull, use another one. When all are dull, sharpen them at the same time. Sharpening three gravers at the same time takes less time than sharpening one graver three separate times. Also, if a tip breaks or dulls in the middle of a job, you can finish the job and sharpen when finished. This saves time from having to keep stopping to sharpen a graver.
Use Mark-A-SizeÔ or similar product to mark the amount to remove from a ring shank while sizing. This saves time over using a ruler and divider to measure and mark each shank.
If you do many ring sizings a ring size cutter is well worth the investment. This saves time, as it quickly cuts the exact amount from the ring shank.
Have two saw frames for two different size saw blades both will always be ready for use. You do not have to change saw blades just because the wrong size is in the frame.
Use Platinum tripoli instead of regular tripoli. This cuts faster and you need less time to polish. (Be careful not to over polish.)
Drill 3/8” hole in the center of your muslin buff wheels, then place on the tapered spindle of your polishing motor. This larger hole will move the wheel up further, allowing you to place an inside ring buff on the remaining tapered spindle. You can then use both the inside ring buff and muslin buff wheel with out stopping the motor and changing them.